OLD CAR RADIOS You have just purchased an old car radio for a dollar or two at a yard sale. So, how do you go about hooking up a 12-volt supply and speaker to it, much less a shortwave converter kit??? What you have in front of you is the bare metal case of the radio with the volume control/on-off switch and tuning knob in front and either a bunch of colored wires or just a funny-looking connector in back. So, what's next? Well, you need the proper tools. Get a couple of assorted screwdrivers, both regular and Phillips to remove the cover from the radio. Dig out a voltmeter or VOM, or anything that will measure ohms (if you don't have one, borrow one from a friend). Fetch your trusty soldering iron and solder and your needle nose pliers and wire stripper/clipper. These are the basic tools. If you don't already have them and can't somehow get a hold of them then you have no business building electronics projects anyhow. A scope would also help speed up things, but many hobbyists can't afford one. Oh, yes, you will also need a small 4 - 40 ohm speaker (8 ohms is best) that you salvage from a broken transistor radio, or some such. Most hobbyists have half dozen of these lying around. You will use the ohmmeter, your power of observation, and a bit of reasoning and common sense to figure out what the wires or tabs coming out of the car radio chassis mean. You need to identify the following terminals: the power (+12 volts and ground), and two speaker terminals (if the radio has wiring for more than one speaker, which is probable, then you need to find only the two terminals for any ONE speaker). Finding the ground terminal is easiest. If there are colored wires coming out of the radio, the BLACK wire is the likeliest suspect. Ok, power up your ohm meter and clip one lead to the metal chassis of the radio. In turn test each wire or tab for zero ohms (or just a fraction of an ohm) resist- ance from the lead to the chassis. The only one with the zero or near-zero reading is the culprit, the ground lead. Label it with a small piece of masking tape. Locating the +12 volt terminal takes a bit more work. If there is one and only one red wire coming out of the radio, that is probably it, but do not take it for granted. Now, open up the chassis by unscrewing one or more of the sheet metal plates enclosing the works of the radio. You need access to the back of the volume control, which also happens to have an on/off switch mounted on it. Find the two terminals on the back of the on/off switch. Twist the volume control so the on/off switch clicks ON. Now, measure the resistance from either terminal on the back of this switch to each wire or terminal coming out of the chassis of the radio (paying particular atten- tion to the RED wire, if there is one). You will read a zero or near-zero resistance from only one wire or terminal to the on/off switch. This is +12 volts. Label this wire or tab. Reinstall the metal plates on the chassis to close it. The final step is to find two leads for any one speaker. You will test the remaining, unlabeled leads or tabs. Now finally power up the radio. Get your 12 volt regulated power supply (the enclosed file POWERSUP.TXT gives details on building one if necessary), and attach the +V and GND leads to the terminals on the radio labeled in the steps above. Carefully apply power. Turn on the on/off switch of the radio. If the fuse on the power supply has not blown, then proceed to the next step. Now with the VOM on volts function, read the voltage between the chassis (ground) and each of the unlabeled terminals. If you read +12 v on any of them, this is the lead supplying juice to a power antenna accessory. Label it so and leave it alone from now on. Most or all of the leads should give you a low or no voltage reading to chassis ground. Fine so far. Disconnect the power. Attach one or two feet of hookup wire to the radio's antenna jack... solder or crimp it on if you do not have an antenna plug. This is so the radio will now receive broadcast signals. If you have a scope, the rest is easy. Just connect scope in turn to each set of two unlabeled terminals. Set the scope time scale to 200 microseconds per division and the volts/division to about 5. With the power on to the radio, look for a scope display that looks like an audio signal (scrambled sine waves of various amplitudes). Sets of two terminals giving this display are likely suspects of being speaker terminals. Continue with tests below. If you can't get a scope or do not know how to use one, that is o.k. You will now use that old minispeaker mentioned above. With the power on to the radio and a wire attached to the antenna jack as above, clip to the speaker leads (using alligator clip terminated test leads if you have them, if not, just plain old wires with the ends bared and crimped as necessary with needle nose pliers) in turn each set of two radio terminals you will test. For each test turn the radio volume up and tune the dial a bit. You should soon find a set of terminals that works. If you had happened to hook up one terminal of each of two different speaker outputs, you will get weird broken up sounds or other strange behavior. Test all the unlabeled terminals and find the pairs that sound best. These sets are intended for the same speaker. Now, assuming that you have not blown out the speaker (unlikely if you have carefully! followed the instructions above), permanently connect the speaker to the terminals you found, or hook up a better speaker that you have been saving for the purpose, as your prefer. That's all for this stage. Now on to building and installing the shortwave converter. ÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜ Important note: Make ALL ohms readings with the power to the radio OFF, otherwise you will likely blow out your VOM. When changing wired connections, between taking readings, it is safest to turn the power off. While there is little or no shock hazard while working on low voltage transistorized radio circuitry, there is always the danger that you will damage the radio itself, your instruments, or your tools if you do not know what you are doing. Have an experienced electronics hobbyist or technician assist you if you are new to this. Note on purchasing an old car radio: Choose a cheap radio with a tuning dial, NOT with digital tuning. Try to get a radio with a bit of empty space inside the case, so you can mount the converter internally. Do not buy the radio if it is too dirty or greasy, has torn wires, or loose parts clanking around inside. Do not pay more than about $5 maximum for it (you should be able to get one cheaper). Before even buying a car radio, read the enclosed file AMRADIO.TXT to see if an ordinary table radio could fit your needs [it would save both time and money].